TOTALLY INDEPENDENT

PANJIM ~ AGUADA ~ PANJIM

(30 kms)
15th AUGUST 2010

I had decided last evening that come what may I am going to go out cycling this morning. There was flag hoisting at the High Court at 8.15 which I don't miss so I couldn’t join with the rest of the clan who went cycling to Diwar Island at 7.30a.m. Besides it is Independence Day so I found good reason to go independent!

I set out at 9 from my place (near Panjim Church) to Panjim Ferry. Crossed over to Betim. Cycled along the river Mandovi to Verem; then took the second left to go to Candolim. Once at the Candolim ~ Calangute Road I turned left to go to Aguada.

Once at the Aguada T-junction (Aguada Bus Stop) I turned left. By this time I had finished the Getorade bottle I was carrying so I bought a 1L bottled water. The ride upto here was easy. The road is flat and in good condition. There is tree cover along the road that affords protection from the unforgiving sun. The weather was pleasant and the skies clear. I stopped at least 6 times on the way to have Getorade – once on the Nerul bridge to sink in the panoramic view of the river and landscapes around it. (Have suffered once for not replenishing the system with liquids along the ride)

The climb starts from near the Coco Beach Jetty. I had done this climb once before (on my Hero Octane) and had struggled to make it up. This time (on a Trek 4300 series) it was easy! Once at the Fort I tried gaining entry but the guards at the gate wouldn’t allow me in with the cycle. So I went around the fort (there is this narrow laterite stone pathway that goes along the fort; in between the fort and this pathway is a deep ditch; half of this pathway has a railing and the other half is scary, but I conquered it!)

From here I went to the light – house and then off-road. I could hear many peacocks chirp. There must have been a muster of peacocks and I was hoping to see atleast one and just then I spot two running nervously away from a bush near me. I tried to follow them but they were too quick. It’s a rocky terrain with loose gravel and the first leg (upto the cliff) was easy. I could cycle all along. I stopped at the cliff to capture the beautiful view of the Arabian sea meeting the horizon. Remnants of the Fort could be seen below where the waves were rough and the sea choppy. Further ahead the sea looked calm and silent with fishing trawlers painted bright blue and red.

There is a long narrow and a winding foot trail that goes along the hills and culminates at the entrance of Fort Aguada resort. From a distance it looked neat and manageable but once at it I was caught between the devil and the deep blue sea – literally. I wouldn’t adventure this alone again.

At first there was a steep descent. The loose gravel made it too risky to cycle down so I help up the cycle and trekked down a major part of it. The small stretches that seemed safe I didn’t miss an inch. But the whole way is very treacherous and full of surprises. But the view it affords is simply spectacular.

There was a carcass of some animal that I spot along the way; a snake (that appeared to be a Sand Boa) and many bugs of sporting varied colours and patterns.

The coastline is fantastic. The rough waves lashing at the rocks was almost like music. There are beautiful rock formations and even a cave!

The last leg of this trail was very risky. There had been a land slide and the ground was slippery at places. Towards the end there was a branch of a pine tree that closed the pathway down to the Fort wall near Fort Aguada Resort. I called out to a lifeguard posted there and with his help I managed to get myself past this obstacle.

I took my time along this trail to let the panorama sink into me. It was an experience worth the risk. When I set out on this trail I clueless where it would lead to, but that it leads somewhere. For almost an hour, I was at nature’s mercy – all by myself with no human at sight.

It was only when I got down to the fort wall that I was welcomed by curious tourists as if I have descended from space.

I had a quick bite at ‘flambee”; got myself another bottle of water and then straight home. Tired yet happy!