This was one hell of a ride. I woke up 7 a.m, had a cheese sandwich and a cold coffee, set out at 7.25 am to meet Ian and Prue at their guest house near Panjim Church. They are Australians touring India on their bikes since last 4 months.

From there we proceeded to Indoor Stadium where Joseph, Terence, Delfin, Haresh and Joshua were waiting for us. We set out for DonaPaula via Miramar beach. From DonaPaula we went to the Goa University, Bambolim. On the way Vinoo and Mayur joined us. We then took the road going down to Shiridao. At this junction Joshua split and head home. We went down the to Shiridao and rode right up to the Chapel of Jesus Nazareth – a modest chapel but with a spectacular view. The road from Bambolim to Shiridao is narrow and runs along the beach. The weather was pleasant and the cool sea breeze made the experience memorable.

After this we decided to go to the Batim Church of Our Lady of Rosary. The site of this Church had always eluded me and it wasn’t until recently that I found my way up to this Church. I wanted the group to see it since this Church is also perched atop a hill with a spectacular view of the lush green fields below. We were lucky as the morning mass had just finished and the person in charge agreed to hold the door open for us for an extra time till we got a good look at its interiors. It has very modest interiors and an old painting hanging high near the ceiling and needs repairs. An inscription on the floor read that it was constructed in 1650 by a Portuguese noble.

From here we continued our ride through the beautiful village setting and the green fields that we spot from top. We were heading to St. Anne Church at Talaulim – slated to be the oldest Church of Goa.

This Church is presently under renovation – a project undertaken by the ASI and INTACH. We were allowed entry inside by the priest who lives next door and we explored it right up to both its towers. The experience was worth the ride.

From here we were guided to the ancient laterite Kadamba road that leads to Old Goa! It’s a steep climb up but we managed to cycle a good part of it. It opens on the new Kadamba by-pass (NH-4A). This ride was definitely very bumpy!

At Old Goa we stopped at the Gandhi Circle for a quick fruit snack...banana’s, chicku’s and Cucumber. We bought more water. The salt put on the cucumber was much relief to my body’s depleted salt levels. We rode along to Ribandar and back home to Panjim.

45 kms – 4 hours with rests.

TOTALLY INDEPENDENT

PANJIM ~ AGUADA ~ PANJIM

(30 kms)
15th AUGUST 2010

I had decided last evening that come what may I am going to go out cycling this morning. There was flag hoisting at the High Court at 8.15 which I don't miss so I couldn’t join with the rest of the clan who went cycling to Diwar Island at 7.30a.m. Besides it is Independence Day so I found good reason to go independent!

I set out at 9 from my place (near Panjim Church) to Panjim Ferry. Crossed over to Betim. Cycled along the river Mandovi to Verem; then took the second left to go to Candolim. Once at the Candolim ~ Calangute Road I turned left to go to Aguada.

Once at the Aguada T-junction (Aguada Bus Stop) I turned left. By this time I had finished the Getorade bottle I was carrying so I bought a 1L bottled water. The ride upto here was easy. The road is flat and in good condition. There is tree cover along the road that affords protection from the unforgiving sun. The weather was pleasant and the skies clear. I stopped at least 6 times on the way to have Getorade – once on the Nerul bridge to sink in the panoramic view of the river and landscapes around it. (Have suffered once for not replenishing the system with liquids along the ride)

The climb starts from near the Coco Beach Jetty. I had done this climb once before (on my Hero Octane) and had struggled to make it up. This time (on a Trek 4300 series) it was easy! Once at the Fort I tried gaining entry but the guards at the gate wouldn’t allow me in with the cycle. So I went around the fort (there is this narrow laterite stone pathway that goes along the fort; in between the fort and this pathway is a deep ditch; half of this pathway has a railing and the other half is scary, but I conquered it!)

From here I went to the light – house and then off-road. I could hear many peacocks chirp. There must have been a muster of peacocks and I was hoping to see atleast one and just then I spot two running nervously away from a bush near me. I tried to follow them but they were too quick. It’s a rocky terrain with loose gravel and the first leg (upto the cliff) was easy. I could cycle all along. I stopped at the cliff to capture the beautiful view of the Arabian sea meeting the horizon. Remnants of the Fort could be seen below where the waves were rough and the sea choppy. Further ahead the sea looked calm and silent with fishing trawlers painted bright blue and red.

There is a long narrow and a winding foot trail that goes along the hills and culminates at the entrance of Fort Aguada resort. From a distance it looked neat and manageable but once at it I was caught between the devil and the deep blue sea – literally. I wouldn’t adventure this alone again.

At first there was a steep descent. The loose gravel made it too risky to cycle down so I help up the cycle and trekked down a major part of it. The small stretches that seemed safe I didn’t miss an inch. But the whole way is very treacherous and full of surprises. But the view it affords is simply spectacular.

There was a carcass of some animal that I spot along the way; a snake (that appeared to be a Sand Boa) and many bugs of sporting varied colours and patterns.

The coastline is fantastic. The rough waves lashing at the rocks was almost like music. There are beautiful rock formations and even a cave!

The last leg of this trail was very risky. There had been a land slide and the ground was slippery at places. Towards the end there was a branch of a pine tree that closed the pathway down to the Fort wall near Fort Aguada Resort. I called out to a lifeguard posted there and with his help I managed to get myself past this obstacle.

I took my time along this trail to let the panorama sink into me. It was an experience worth the risk. When I set out on this trail I clueless where it would lead to, but that it leads somewhere. For almost an hour, I was at nature’s mercy – all by myself with no human at sight.

It was only when I got down to the fort wall that I was welcomed by curious tourists as if I have descended from space.

I had a quick bite at ‘flambee”; got myself another bottle of water and then straight home. Tired yet happy!

ADVANCED CYCLING TO PILERNE ~ SALIGAO

SATURDAY, June 11. 2010

PANJIM FERRY ~ BETIM ~ VEREM ~ PILERNE INDUSTRIAL ESTATE ~ SALIGAO ~ CHOGHM ROAD ~ BACK UP PILERNE ~ DOWN TO VEREM, BETIM ~ BACK TO PANJIM via MANDOVI BRIDGE.

I like this title that Joseph coined for the ride in his post on Fb - Advanced Cycling. The ride was set for 6.15 am from Panjim Ferry Point. I got back home from a friends wedding reception at 2 a.m and went to sleep setting the alarm for 5.45 a.m. As usual the alarm rang and i switched it off only to wake up to Josephs call at 6.15! I told him that i was leaving from home and I actually did - in less than 3 minutes!

At the ferry point were waiting Joseph Rodrigues, John Caldeira (from 6!) and Delfim Corriea Da Silva (bit late but perhaps there before the ferry left). While waiting for the ferry to return i realised i had forgotten to carry water and the late night was wearing its effect on me. Around 6.30 we ferried across to Betim. The ferry ride across River Mandovi has always been a very refreshing experience for me since childhood and the morning chill enriched the experience. We took the road from Betim to Verem. On the way were waiting Brian Sopher and Haresh Korde. After a quick introduction head to Verem Market and then took the road straight up to Pilerne.

The ride along the river bank is spectacular and the green fields along the road from Verem to Pilerne provided the perfect soothe to my tired eyes. Brian taught us about the sweet spot behind the wheels of the cyclist in front. It makes cycling so much easier for the following cyclists and the rotations make it enjoyable for the whole group.

From the green fields of Verem my eyes turned blue cycling up the slope of Pilerne Industrial Estate. My thighs swell, my lungs empty, sweat dripping from every inch and with all the other cyclists gone past me (and Delfim advising me 'keep straight and paddle slowly') I was wondering to myself is this real. The climb didnt seem to end and there was hardly any respite of a flat road in between. I saw John at a distance struggling yet determined on his 6 gear cycle and I told myself that I am either cycling all the way to the top or am going down slope and back home but i am not going to touch my feet down. Impossible is nothing and I saw the rest resting at a distance as the climb straightened and before long i was back with the group.

Vibhav gave me some water and that felt so good. Perhaps it was also the thought that now its down slope! Brian told us about sitting position and the positioning of the paddles while going down slope. The ride down was awesome.

Once down we cycled through the village past heritage houses and narrow lanes that opened out near the Calangute Police Station. We took the Choghm road and the plan was to cycle up to Porvorim via Sangolda but there was a change and we took the road back to the Pilerne Industrial Estate, which meant going up the slope again.

The thought drained out the little energy i had saved for the journey back via Sangolda and Porvorim and after paddling a bit up the slope I realised a cramp growing in my right leg. I slowed down and the others were now out of sight. The cramp was gripping me more than mt determination and I thought wiser to stop and rest rather than have the cramp take the toll. I stopped by a small 'Chai' shop had a Mirinda Limbu Pani that made me feel much better and text a message to Joseph about my latest 'development'. I text him that i would make it up. But the boy at the shop took a long time to fetch change to give back to me and by then Vibhav had volunteered to come down looking for me. I am forever grateful to Vibhav for this. We then cycled up together and the group was waiting at the gate of Saligao - Pilerne Seminary.

During this wait Brian gave out some important tips to the rest which John told me on the way back. We cycled down the slope back to Verem and Betim. At Betim Joseph decided that we will take the bridge instead of the Ferry. My thigh was hurting a bit but I would manage.

I reached back home at about 8.30. My T-shirt was drenched with sweat. There was sweat dripping from my helmet belt. I streched out, had a shower and looked at myself in the mirror and said 'good job Amey'.

ISLAND HOPPING

How to make Good Friday better?

ISLAND HOPPING ON A CYCLE - PANJIM ~ RIBANDAR ~ CHORAO ~ NARVE ~ DIVAR ~ RIBANDAR ~ PANJIM (50 kms +)

I set out from my place (Near Mahalaxmi Temple, Panjim) at 10.30 a.m. The sun was smiling bright at me almost mocking that I am late.

There was'nt much traffic in city because of the holiday. I cycled along the D.B. Marg to Patto and then took the road along the Mandovi River (its actually amongst Asia’s oldest and once longest bridge – Ponte de Linhares) to the Ribandar Ferry Point. The Ferry touched in a few minutes. The fisherwoman was selling the ‘catch of the morning’. There were also some fresh oysters being sold across the road. The prices here are very reasonable.

This ferry crossing took me to Chorao Island which has the renowned Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary (the Goa Tourism Development Corporation has a boat ride into the sanctuary for bird enthusiasts. Don’t know if it is still operational). The ferry crossing took about 10 minutes. [There is also another route to get to Chorao Island from Panjim – cross Mandovi Bridge, get down to Brittona and cycle about 4 kms till you get to a Ferry Crossing that will get you to Chorao. Also an interesting ride.]

From Chorao I cycled to Narve. I stopped at the Chorao Church for a quick snack. Plenty of sand mining here.

There were trees along a good part of the road that provided shelter from the unforgiving sun. During monsoons the experience is enhanced by the lush green fields both sides of the road. The road is superior quality and I am struggling to recollect if I encountered any pot hole on the way. There were many side roads going down to the teak plantations and fields along the river. These were ‘Kutcha’ roads (no tarmac) and so were very tempting.

In Narve is the protected site of the Saptakoteshwar Temple. It was a short 2 kms detour from the road going to the Ferry Crossing to Divar. I reached the temple site at 1.00. The temple has a historical significance http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saptakoteshwar. Maharaj Shivaji is credited to have rebuilt this temple in the 1600’s. There is also another plaque that reads that Fundacao Oriente has renovated the Temple. But its present state undermines its historical glory.

By this time i was both hungry and thirsty. I had passed the small shops along the way optimistic that there would be at least a small restaurant at this important site. To my dismay there was none (although there is one a little ahead). A bypasser told me that i could get water at the temple priest's house (just opposite the temple). I asked the temple priest if there was any place nearby where they served lunch and he happily offered me to eat at his house. I was delighted. Even though I dont relish vegetarian food the food at their place is uniquely tasty. At pains of seeming offensive I offered to pay and he reluctantly accepted Rs. 50.

After lunch, I rest at the Temple waiting for the unforgiving afternoon sun to soften. Its always about 5 degrees cooler inside a temple. It was breezy too and so the heat outside did'nt bother me much inside the temple. A little later I met a boy from the village who told me of a spring nearby.

The spring flows round the year although its best is during monsoon. There were many people (men and women) bathing under it and i was encouraged by them to have a dip. The water is rumoured to have medicinal properties but for me - i felt fresh as new.

At 4.00 i set out again. I cycled my way to get the Ferry to Divar. Its a short distance from the detour i took to the Saptakoteshwar Temple. This is a short ferry crossing. All ferry crossings for pedestrians and two wheelers is free. I believe the Government pays for it. From here i had to go to get the ferry crossing to Ribandar which was about 7-8 kms. Divar has some amazing old portuguese houses and many of them are well maintained. [There is also a ferry that goes to Old Goa but i was already quiet exhausted]

I took the ferry and got to Ribandar. It brings you to a different ferry point than the one i took in the morning. From here Panjim is about 9 kms. I got home at about 6.00 p.m - exhausted as hell but the experience was totally worth it.

[There were not so many climbs and the many descents more than compensated for them. I didnt have difficulty buying water along the way. There are many General stores that even stock enegry drinks! ]

CRITICAL MASS RALLY 5 (PANJIM)

Kudos to Joseph Rodrigues for bringing together cycling enthusiasts in Goa under the banner 'Goa Cycle Club' on Facebook. The club has nearly 300 members. For the Critical Mass in Panjim today there were about 19 present. There was also a Critical Mass at Vasco happening at the same time.

We gathered at the Dayanand Bandodkar Samadhi in Miramar and set out around 5.30 p.m. From the Miramar Circle we went to Panjim via VMS Law College and St.Inez. In Panjim, we went along the 18th June Road upto the Panjim Church; went down from Cortin; took left at Rua de Ourem and then left again near 'Down the Road'. We then cycled along M.G road, past Don Bosco School till the St.Inez circle, then turned right towards Kala Academy and then followed D.B. road back to Miramar beach.

It was a great experience. There was no much traffic on the way and the two traffic police following us on their Motor Bike did a fine job of regulating the traffic at crucial junctions.

I met many new cycling enthusiasts. In particular Mr. Veenu Vas and Mr. John Aguiar. John has cycled in the 80's from Goa to Hyderabad and Pune! There is a long trip to Chorao Island planned in mid April. The next Critical Mass is on 25th April. Everyone is invited.